1. Evinrude Manual Download

February 28, 2019 at 8:38 pmYou mean that curved wire spring? That is a choke unloader. Its function is to open the choke if you happen to go to full throttle while the choke is still in the partially closed position (automatic warm-up position).The manual choke lever has three positions. Choke off, Automatic, and Choke on. Normally left in center Automatic position.The Automatic function uses a temp sensor to partially close the electric choke till it warms up a bit. There is a service bulletin telling how to disable the automatic function in some cases where it wants to over-choke when not needed.This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago.

Evinrude Manual Download

February 28, 2019 at 10:24 pmLike Frank says, that crazy piece of bent wire is just to open the choke if the engine was running cold/nor warmed up and you opened up the throttleIt looks like your choke solenoid is not connected the choke linkage though, so the electric choke will not work at all like this. You can still close the choke using the manual choke control though, which is the pointy end of that linkage pictured. Like Frank says, that manual choke has three positions:OFF: The choke will always be off regardless of whether the electric choke is activated or notAuto: The choke will be controlled by the electric choke solenoid/choke switch/warm-up circuitON: The choke will always be ON regardless of whether the electric choke is activate or not.Like Frank says, the electric choke solenoid had two circuits, you will notice that it has two purple leads coming out of it. One of the circuits is controlled by the key switch/choke toggle. When activated, the choke will be closed fully for cold starting.The other circuit is meant to help the engine warm up by holding the choke just partially closed while it is cold and warming up.This circuit is live anytime the key switch is in the on position, but is controlled by a second temp switch located on the exhaust manifold.

This temp switch is closed when the engine is closed allowing the warm up choke circuit to activate helping the engine warm up after initial cold start with full choke. Once the engine warms up a bit, say 90 degrees F, the second temp switch opens cancelling the warm up circuit. A simple way to know if this circuit is working/active is to remove the air box on a cold engine with the key switch off, the chokes should be wide open (manual control in the auto position). Now, just turn the key to the “on” position, the chokes should close slightly (not fully). If the circuit is active.Needless to say, on your engine, the circuit is not going to work because the choke solenoid is NOT connected to the choke linkage.Like Frank says, most techs usually just wired both circuits of the choke solenoid to the electric choke terminal of the terminal board to eliminate this “warm up circuit”. Post of picture of your choke solenoid so we know how if the plunger is missing, there should be a spring inside the solenoid also. Original solenoid plunger linkages were spring loaded, kind of threaded onto the plunger.

Later models used a solid link that hooked through a hole in the plunger. You will see the plunger in this link:So, I guess what I am saying is that your linkage looks correct, but the choke solenoid plunger linkage is missing.This reply was modified 10 months, 3 weeks ago. On second thought I think the spring or rod from the choke solenoid must hold the plate open.Like I say, the picture shows that the choke linkage is NOT connected to the solenoid plunger, I don’t see the plunger rod/wire either.So, the solenoid plunger will have no effect on the choke whether activated in the warm up or full choke modes.And yes, the choke will seem kind of loose if not connected to the solenoid plunger. You mentioned that the carbs were off, do you still have the solenoid plunger/linkage?

You will probably need the tiny round rubber retainer that holds the wire rod onto the choke linkage, it is part number 307529 (get a few of them, they love to fly away while trying to install them)The choke can be controlled manually without the plunger/linkage. Simply push the arm down to full choke (or pull the white knob all the way out if so equipped). Once the engine starts, have an assistant push the know/arrow all the way in/up, then the choke will be in the off position (and the butterflies will be held open)Remember that the choke solenoid has a little spring inside that pushes the plunger/rod back out of the solenoid, it is probably still inside it.